“I am a child of the winds.”

I recently said Adieu to my 2009 BMW F800 GS. I can’t exactly say I replaced the BMW with a 2014 KTM 690 Enduro R, because it was never supposed to be an either/or proposition, it just sort of happened that way. Ever since the Morocco trip, I’ve had my eyes on one. As they say, good things come to those who know when to pull the trigger. So now I cautiously embark on a journey of making the 690 just right for the riding I currently do. For the time being, that means making it a little more functional for the pavement. Out of the crate, the 690 Enduro R is a big giant dirt bike. The KTM Hardparts Touring Windscreen (or Windschild as the Austrians call it) caught my attention. I bought mine from KTM Twins in San Francisco. Nice folks, very helpful, fast shipping, all that fun stuff, and I’m not being paid to say this. The part itself is about $70 and easy to install.

KTM 690 Enduro R Touring Windscreen

Child of the Winds


Step 1: take headlight and mask assembly off by loosening 2 torx bolts. Here is a helpful tip: put a towel or clean rag on top of your front fender so you have a place to rest the headlight after you take the bolts out and proceed to step 2.

Step 2: unplug the wiring from the headlight.

Step 3: unscrew headlight from the mask. 4 torx screws.

Step 4: use the provided template to drill 4 small pilot holes in the mask. Or clamp the windscreen to the mask approximately where you want it by eyeballing it. I used a couple of welding spring clips. The template seemed a little “off” when I checked it before drilling, so I used the template as a rough guide, then clamped everything together and drilled pilot holes using the windscreen holes to be precise.

Step 5: after you feel good about your pilot holes, you are going to drill pretty big holes, 9mm in diameter, according to the installation instructions. This is so the provided bushings press in nice and tight.

Step 6: Bolt that shit together.

This is what it looks like attached to the stock mask.

This is what it looks like attached to the stock mask.















And here is the finished result…

KTM 690 Enduro R Touring Windscreen

Installed. About 45 minutes of fiddling, that’s all.

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I’ve always wanted to make a Holiday Gift Guide here on IAATB, and never seem to have the time to do it right. So this year, I am going to do it half-assed, but do it nonetheless. Between now and the last night that you can reasonably expect something to arrive in time for Christmas whilst paying through the nose for overnight shipping, I’ll give you a few suggestions. First up is the Giant Loop Zigzag Handlebar Bag. It’s made with the super heavy tarp material that Giant Loop uses in their other waterproof bags like the Great Basin saddlebag, and a hook-and-loop mounting system that should fit just about any bike. I bought one for myself because I’ve been looking for a small “glove compartment” type bag for my BMW F800 GS, since I’m really getting sick of the whole big tank bag thing. This is big enough to hold some documents like your registration papers, maybe some keys, and maybe a pair of shades. I’ll be honest, when I got it, I thought it was going to be a little bigger. Maybe that is the point? I haven’t ridden with it yet, but I can speak to the quality of Giant Loop from previous experiences. There is a nice little zippered mesh pocket on the inside, a nice touch. For $50 plus shipping, this would put a smile on any Motard’s face. I consider it a Grade A stocking stuffer.

Giant Loop Zigzag Bag

A dandy little handlebar bag for your motorcycle.

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Folks, I have been put on this earth to warn you that if you own a BMW F800 GS, you need to have your wheel bearings checked. Here is my story and my warning to you:

I was riding from Bear Lake in Utah, through Evanston, Wyoming. As I was approaching the outskirts of Evanston after having passed through Woodruff, Utah, I felt a slight wobble in my rear wheel, almost like some grooves in the pavement, although there didn’t seem to be any. It bothered me enough to pull over. As I was slowing down, my rear wheel wobble was more pronounced, like a rear flat tire. I put the bike on the side stand and visually inspected the tires. First mistake. I should have lifted it up on the center stand and spun the wheel and checked for any side to side play, but I didn’t. I got on the bike and proceeded cautiously into Evanston to get a full tank of fuel. Everything seemed normal. No noise, and the wobble seemed to have disappeared, so in my mind I thought I had just gone through some wavy pavement. After fueling up, I proceeded on Route 150, otherwise known as the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway, a motorcyclists favorite around these parts. I kept the speed at a decent clip, 65-70 mph or so. As I approached the climb to Mirror Lake, my ABS warning light came on. While I thought it was odd that it just popped on, there was nothing else giving me any feedback there was something wrong with the bike. Then, I went around an uphill switchback, and mid turn, my rear wheel skipped, as if I had just run over a gummy snake, otherwise known as the road sealant they use to fill cracks in the pavement. Now I was starting to get the creeps. I decided I would stop at the scenic turnout a few hundred yards further. As I clutched in and started to coast into a nice spot, my rear wheel seized up. Good thing I was barely moving. I could not move the bike a centimeter. I shut her down, leaned it on the side stand, and prepared myself mentally for the coming to grips with the concept of WTF. I never could have guessed the horror I would then see. The rear brake rotor was covered in smeared silver metal, it almost looked like metallic grease. But this was no grease. It was molten metal from a disintegrated wheel bearing that had cooled and welded my rear wheel in an unmovable state. The ABS sensor was melted from the obvious heat that was transferred through the rear brake caliper. The forged caliper mount, discolored brown from the heat. As I write this, my bike is sitting on a trailer, waiting to be taken to my local mechanic to have the damage assessed, but for sure, the rear wheel is completely toast, as is the rear brake caliper, caliper mount, ABS sensor, and who knows what else, at this point. How can a small part that costs less than a hundred dollars fail and be responsible for thousands of dollars in repairs? How can BMW put a product out on the market with this lack of quality? I suppose it could have been worse. I could have kept going through the downhill switchbacks, having the rear wheel fail and cause a deadly crash. After doing some research on ADVrider and seeing a few threads with stories such as mine, it seems I have been lucky to walk away from this.

BMW F800 Wheel Bearing Failure

Liquified wheel bearing. That silver stuff is metal.

BMW F800 Bearing Failure

ABS Sensor completely melted

BMW F800  Bearing Failure

So Much Heat Transferred Through Rear Brake Caliper

BMW F800 Bearing Failure

Note the Discoloration of the Forged Caliper Mount, and the Metal on the Rotor

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